In September 2011, we sailed for two weeks along the Croatian coast. The ship was a Bénéteau Oceanis 323 and the entire route can be found below.
We logged approximately 240 nautical miles. From Split to Vis via Brac, Hvar and Korcula then through to Lastovo, then to Mljet. Then leisurely via Korcula and Hvar back to Split. We visited some new places again, and had 8 nights on our anchor (or buoy) and only two nights in a harbour.
The weather was very good, plenty of sunshine every day and temperatures up to 30 degrees Celsius and above. We had good sailing winds, especially from the NW, and the sea temperature was 24-25 degrees Celsius.
In early September the dark comes early (before 20:00). The temperature dropped overnight to around 20 degrees Celsius.
This morning we take it slow. Swimming, long breakfast and tidying and organizing the boat.
We slip our mooring and hoist the anchor at 10:15.We sail out of the bay on our engine, but once offshore we catch wind again. From the east this time, Jugo, about 9 knots. We hoist the sails and head directly towards Vodnjak 200, the westernmost of the Pakleni Otoci. Pretty soon we see a group of dolphins, probably the same group as last night.
In the following hours the wind varies between 2 and 18 knots. Above 12 knots, we are at work, below that it is relaxed sailing. We sail in the direction of Vis. After arrival we first explore the bay to the west of the city, Luka Rogacic. Which is very busy, but looks pretty good for a stay (if the wind does not come from the (north) east).
While we were sailing into the bay Viska Luka we still doubt whether we will moor or anchor. As we prepare to moor the ship one of our fenders flies overboard. A good exercise for a ‘man overboard’ situation. In 16 to 18 knots of wind the fender moves away rapidly, but our third attempt we rescue this unfortunate crew member from the water. Not bad, but it should actually be better …
We see that there are also moorings in the harbour of Vis available now. Around 16:00 we pick up one of these. Because of the strong wind, we lay a double line. The cost is quite reasonable, in our view, the rate for our ship of 10.0 meters 100 kuna (about EUR 14).
Later that evening we have the beautiful image of a big ferry boat sailing straight at us. Naturally, he turns in time. It is very busy that night in Vis. Well after dark the yachts are still coming in. The quay and all buoys have been busy, so most try to anchor. That is not easy, and some yachts drift. Because of the wind and the swell is a restless night.
Marina Kaštela is again incredibly hot. Due to the lack of wind, the temperature rises to about 40 degrees Celsius. However, it seems a little quieter than two years ago. Our ship is in prime shape, and after bringing aboard our luggage and groceries we get out of this harbour and this heat.
At 15:45 we sail out of the harbour. Halfway through the bay Kaštelanski Zaljev the wind arrives. Southwesterly 12 to 15 knots. We quickly hoist the sails and enjoy the cool breeze that it brings. With a speed of 5.5 to 6.0 knots we sail between Rt Marjan and Rt Ciovo towards open sea. We point our bow at Splitska Vrata, the passage between Solta and Brac.
Because we do not want the high rates of Lučice, where we have often spent the first night, we explore the other two large bays on the south western side of Brac. The easternmost, Uvala Maslinova, looks most promising on the map. Unfortunately, it is being used for aquaculture.
So we are going to Uvala Osibova, the westernmost bay. Just before the entrance of the bay we see a group of four dolphins, including a young baby. Once inside we anchor fairly deep in the bay in 8 feet of water, and swim a line ashore to tie ourselves up to a sturdy tree.
The bay is very deep, halfway through we still measure 20 feet of water under the keel. In the course of the evening three other ships anchor. Because of the depth and because the bay is quite narrow, the anchoring space is limited.
At 19:00 we are docked. We swim for half an hour in the crystal clear warm waters. Yet it feels refreshing, according to our thermometer it more than 32 degrees Celsius. Around 20:00 it is dark and an hour later we make our bed in the cockpit.