Course Southwest

  • Post category:2008 Malta

We wake up in completely different conditions. The sun is out, and it makes everything look a lot friendlier. We use the occasion to put out our clothes to dry for a couple of hours.

Around 1130 we leave Otranto harbour in a southerly direction, but not after a Carabinieri officer (that looks like a general in his shiny uniform) has put a number of stamps in the non-EU passports on board… There is little wind, so we motor south in the direction of Capo Santa Maria de Leuca, the south-eastern tip of Italy. The coast is green and hilly, with a small village every now and then.

We reach the cape at around 1500. My team takes first watch. The wind is north-westerly, around 12 knots, the sea is calm, and we hoist the mainsail and roll out the genua. We sail in south-westerly direction, course 222. Shipping traffic is busy here, a large number of cargo ships and fishermen.

After our watch, there is pasta and Bolognese sauce… We do a further watch from 2100 – 2300 as our ship slowly but steadily crosses the Ionian Sea.



Otranto

  • Post category:2008 Malta

Due to unfavourable weather conditions (strong wind and heavy seas from the south and south-west, straight on our bow) we are stuck in Otranto for the day. We spend the day with R&R (rest and recreation) and prepare the boat for the next leg. Otranto is a nice-looking town, but rather empty at this time of the year.

Brindisi to Otranto

  • Post category:2008 Malta

In the morning, the skipper and I go to check the weather forecast at the harbourmaster’s office. The prediction is 17 – 20 knots from the south-east (5 Beaufort), and a moderate to rough sea. We decide to go out and try our luck. After filling up the diesel tanks we leave the harbour and sail in a southerly direction, which requires frequent tacking and hard work.

Just before dark we are joined by a large group of dolphins. Around 2030 we arrive in Otranto, where we moor in front of the coastguard offices (Guardia Costiera), by far the most quiet corner of the harbour in terms of wind and waves.

Arriving in Brindisi (Italy)

  • Post category:2008 Malta

The night brought some nice sailing conditions, north-westerly winds, 15 – 20 knots. However, the waves were two meters plus. This being the first night, it brought along a few cases of seasickness. While adjusting to the ‘bumpy ride’ on the water, most people (myself included) do not get much sleep.

My team was on watch from 0200 – 0500. A beautiful starry night with a small moon. Some ships on the horizon, but nothing close enough to be a risk. Around 0230 we have our first encounter with a group of dolphins. We see their shadows around the boat, see and hear them jumping around the boat and hear that special ‘snapping’ sound when they breathe. We do not know it at the time, but it is the first of many encounters. We saw groups of dolphins on every day we were on the water. Our course is south-east. We keep the Scorpio constellation over our bow for most of the night.

Around 1130 in the morning (during my second watch) we get our first glimpse of the Italian coast, and hoist the courtesy flag. Our plan is to make it to Brindisi harbour today (course 140), since some heavy weather is expected (40 knots wind from the south, Sirocco).

By the end of the afternoon we reach Brindisi. The seaside looks like any other industrial port on this planet. Inside, there are some beautiful old fortifications and a typical Italian town. In the Roman days, Brindisi was the end of the Via Appia. Brindisi is the only real natural harbour on the Italian peninsula. We moor along the city quay, watched by large numbers of Italians who are there for their Sunday afternoon stroll and ice-cream.

At Sea (or was it Customs?)

  • Post category:2008 Malta

Due to weather and some last minute shopping, it is 1130 before we drop our moorings and leave Marina Kaštela. During the morning we experience a rare weather phenomenon, the so-called ‘Black Bura’. It comes with very dark and threatening clouds, and usually brings bad weather.

Around noon we moor at the customs pier in the harbour of Split. That takes a bit longer than we anticipated. We are leaving the A1 sea area (coastal) and move into A2 and A3 territory (offshore). Therefore, the authorities check whether our boat, the facilities on board, and the crew meet the required regulations. They even get in the harbourmaster out of a meeting with a visiting government minister to check our papers – the first time in six years that anybody takes a look at my skipper’s license!

In the end, we are cleared to leave at around 1600. Which we are eager to do by now. We first pass Splitska Vrata, the channel between Brač and Šolta, and set a course for Lastovo. By the time we reach this island the night watch system is operational. We run three shifts of three persons each: one watch leader and two crew.

Marina Kaštela (Split)

  • Post category:2008 Malta

During this day the crew arrives from various directions. 9 people, 4 nationalities. There is time to prepare the boat and shop for provisions. During the day, a strong Bura wind (unusual for this time of the year) blows. Like in most of Europe, spring has been cold, wet and windy in Croatia. We plan to leave tomorrow morning. Not all participants are experienced sailors. Therefore it seems best to get to know the boat during daylight, and not immediately jump into a nightshift.